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Glasgow: The Definitive Guide

A Hidden Scotland Guide

Glasgow

A Hidden Scotland Guide
Glasgow might not be Scotland’s capital, but as the country’s largest city – and a proud, creative, indefatigable metropolis – it’s well accustomed to the spotlight. The nearly 1.7 million people who live here play their part in creating a unique brew of earthiness, elegance, edginess and effervescence.
  1. What’s Glasgow best known for
  2. See and do in Glasgow
  3. Where to eat and drink in Glasgow
  4. Shopping in Glasgow
  5. History of Glasgow

  • what to do

  • Where to stay

  • Restaurants

  • Cafes

What it’s best known for

One person’s architectural delights are another’s football-mad neighbourhoods. Glasgow is synonymous with all manner of threads from life’s rich tapestry, from its musical heritage (it’s the home of Primal Scream, Chvrches, Simple Minds and Mogwai, among countless others) and its sporting rivalries (are your colours green or blue?) to its importance in the worlds of art, science and design. But above all else, perhaps, it’s somewhere which has stepped away from industrial decline to become a place where anything’s possible.

What to see and do in Glasgow

Glasgow is a big city with a big history, and its key sights are well spread across the map. The better known museums and galleries have deservedly strong reputations, but you’ll also find a veritable trove of smaller attractions and quirky urban finds: some of them old, some of them new.

Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre

Merchant City

A gloriously eccentric attraction centred on a series of ‘kinetic’ sculptures: essentially scrap metal which has undergone meticulous hand-crafting to create spectacular pieces of art that move like clockwork. Imagine Heath Robinson crossed with the steampunk aesthetic and you’ll get the general idea. It’s brilliant.

Crookston Castle

Crookston

Granting wide city views from its hilltop perch, Glasgow’s only remaining medieval castle was built more than 600 years ago, on the site of earthworks that date back even further. The structure itself originally had five towers, most of which have now crumbled, but this only adds to the days-of-yore atmosphere. It’s thought that Mary Queen of Scots once stayed here.

Fossil Grove

Victoria Park

It’s not often that you get the chance to gaze on something which dates back 330 million years. This cluster of eleven fossilised tree stumps began to be discovered only in the 1880s, and today these prehistoric (or should that be pre-prehistoric?) remains are protected under cover, with occasional open days and tours.

The Hidden Lane

Finnieston

You’ll find everything from jewellers and guitar-makers to tattooists and furniture upcyclers in this vibrant community of dozens of different studios. There are countless treats to uncover, but don’t miss the little Hidden Lane tearoom, with its vintage crockery and indulgent afternoon teas.

Govan Stones

Govan

Carved around a millennium ago to celebrate the rulers of the Kingdom of Strathclyde – and found inside Govan Old Church – these 31 ancient stones include intricately inscribed crosses and giant hogback stones. The stand-out piece is the Govan Sarcophagus, carved from solid stone and showing a stag-hunting scene.

Glasgow Necropolis

Dennistoun

This Victorian cemetery has become a Glasgow landmark since burials began here in 1832, and its grand tombs contain some of the wealthiest city residents of the day, including no less than eight Lords Provost. The 37-acre site holds some 3,500 tombs, and offers guided walking tours.
Glasgow Necropolis

Glasgow Mural Trail

City Centre

Bringing colour, creativity and vitality to central Glasgow, this walking trail celebrates some of the city’s superb public street art. The oldest piece dates back to 2008, and the trail today takes in some 30 artworks – many of them vast, and ranging from radical statements to surrealist tableaux.
glasgow mural

Wallace’s Well

Robroyston

Out in the northern suburbs, overlooking an unassuming minor road, you’ll find a centuries-old well with a unique claim to fame. It’s said that William Wallace himself would stop here and drink whenever he was passing through the area – including in the moments just prior to his capture.

The Hidden Gardens

Pollokshields

This award-winning public green space is ostensibly a patiently nurtured garden on the site of what was once an old tram depot. But it’s far more than that. Working to promote peace, learning and intercultural dialogue, the garden holds events and activities that allow people of all beliefs and backgrounds to come together. 

Duke of Wellington Statue

Merchant City

Erected in 1844 in honour of Arthur Wellesley, the 1st Duke of Wellington (of Waterloo fame), this horseback statue stands on Royal Exchange Square. So far, so normal. But this is Glasgow. Since the 1980s, and despite attempts from the council, the duke’s head has generally been topped with a bright orange traffic cone, becoming an iconic attraction in the process.
Duke of Wellington

St Valentine’s Bones

Gorbals

Looking for a romantic pilgrimage? When Valentine’s Day rolls around each year, it’s fair to say not many of us spare a thought for St Valentine himself, the man unknowingly behind our annual flurry of cards and roses. But his bones rest near the entrance of Glasgow’s Blessed St John Duns Scotus Church, where they’re decorated with flowers every year.

Britannia Panopticon Music Hall

Merchant City

Step back in time with a visit to this hugely evocative entertainment venue, which stands today as the world’s oldest surviving music hall. For decades, the auditorium here was packed out daily by often rowdy audiences, watching acts such as Stan Laurel, who made his stage debut here at 16 years old. Viewings are often available on Fridays and Saturdays.

Ashton Lane

West End

Another of Glasgow’s tucked-away treasures is this cobbled alley, strewn with fairy lights and playing home to a whole host of enticing outlets, from cocktail bars and craft beer taprooms to curry houses and – in the shape of the Grosvenor Cinema – one of the most characterful movie theatres in the city.
Ashton Lane

Glasgow City Chambers

City Centre

The City Chambers were built at huge expense in the 1880s and remain a deeply extravagant statement, their halls and ceilings adorned with all manner of design flourishes. Most notable of all are the wide winding stairs, crafted from imported Italian Carrara marble – it’s said that the staircase is the biggest of its kind in Western Europe.

Paisley Abbey

Paisley

West of Glasgow, in the riverside town of Paisley, stands an abbey with almost 850 years of history under its cassock. First founded back in 1163, the structure has witnessed fire, collapsed towers and various notable marriages and burials. Robert the Bruce’s grandson, later to become King Robert II, is even said to have been born here. And keep your eyes peeled for the toothy ‘alien’ gargoyle on the outside of the abbey…

Pollok Country Park

Pollok

Previously named Britain’s Best Park – and on one occasion even the Best Park in Europe – this 146-hectare spread of land draws everyone from mountain bikers (there are three different biking circuits) to art-lovers (the park is home to elegant Pollok House and its array of Spanish art, as well as the Burrell Collection gallery). With plenty of gardens and walks too, there’s much here to enjoy.
Pollok Park

Glasgow Cathedral

East End

Unusually for a Scottish cathedral, this dark and towering Gothic edifice came through the turbulent Reformation era almost unscathed, meaning much of what can be seen today dates from the 15th century. Expect stone choir screens, delicate stained-glass windows, and the tomb of St Mungo himself, who rests in the pillared surrounds of the Lower Church.
Glasgow Cathedral

Paisley Witches’ Memorial

Paisley

A poignant reminder of an event more than 320 years ago, when seven Paisley women and men were accused of witchcraft after the daughter of a local laird fell ill. Six of them were executed at the unsettlingly named Gallow Green, and today a horseshoe-embossed memorial marks the spot where they met their cruel fate.

John Brown & Co Shipyard

Clydebank

Downriver from Glasgow lies Clydebank, and the remains of a monumental shipyard that was once one of the most important in the world. Vessels such as RMS Lusitania, RMS Aquitania and even Queen Elizabeth 2 were built right here, in a yard that was finally closed in 2001. It also played a key role in both World Wars, despite being an enemy target.

Barrowland Ballroom

Gallowgate

One of the UK’s best known live music spots – and previously host to everyone from The Clash and David Bowie to Biffy Clyro, Franz Ferdinand and Primal Scream – this one-time ballroom is famed for its acoustics, its atmosphere, and the gargantuan neon sign on its frontage. You’re advised to bag tickets early for bigger acts. Close by, Barrowland Park has a pathway decorated with many of the names to have played at the venue.

Riverside Museum

Kelvinhaugh

Sitting close to where the River Clyde meets the River Kelvin, this unashamedly modern cultural attraction was designed by the late Dame Zaha Hadid and opened in 2011. Behind its already iconic façade, the collections themselves focus on the city’s role as a transport and technology powerhouse, with ample space given to Glasgow’s shipbuilding heritage.
riverside museum

Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum

Kelvingrove Park

Undoubtedly one of the city’s top attractions, the sandstone Victorian colossus that is the Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum holds a profusion of different exhibits arranged by theme, from French impressionist art and medieval armour to the work of hometown hero Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Allow yourself ample time to wander at will.
kelvingrove

The People’s Palace

Glasgow Green

Telling the ever-evolving tale of Glasgow itself – and no less importantly, the people who make it tick – this social history museum combines film-reel, photographs and myriad other objects to demonstrate the spirit, character and diversity of locals past and present. The museum does an absorbing job of showing the cycles of change, both good and bad, that this unique city has been through.

Glasgow Science Centre

Pacific Quay

This superb, four-floor science museum crams in a cornucopia of brilliant educational exhibits, many of them interactive. Deep space, human biology and climate action are all covered – there’s even a state-of-the-art, full-dome planetarium. It’s heaven for energetic kids, and just as entertaining for anyone with a curious mind.

Hunterian Museum

University of Glasgow

This superb, four-floor science museum crams in a cornucopia of brilliant educational exhibits, many of them interactive. Deep space, human biology and climate action are all covered – there’s even a state-of-the-art, full-dome planetarium. It’s heaven for energetic kids, and just as entertaining for anyone with a curious mind.

Hunterian Museum

Botanic Gardens

West End

Part of the city’s tapestry for more than 200 years, Glasgow’s Botanic Gardens house more than 9,000 different plants, many of them growing under the cover of the gargantuan curvilinear glasshouse that is the Kibble Palace. Away from the glasshouses, more than 20 hectares of landscaped grounds stretch along the banks of the River Kelvin.
Glasgow Botanic Gardens

Gallery of Modern Art

Merchant City

Sitting pretty behind heavy Doric columns on Royal Exchange Square, Scotland’s most visited art museum – universally known as GoMA – plays home to a brilliant and far-reaching collection of modern and contemporary art. Don’t just take our word for it: in 2021, at the European Museum Academy’s inaugural Art Museum Award, GoMA’s ground-breaking exhibits saw it named in third place. Local and international artists are both well represented.
Gallery of Modern Art

The Barras Market

East End

That’s “barras” as in “barrows”. This sprawling street and indoor market has been a Glasgow institution since the early part of the 20th century, and still has a reputation as somewhere to find a weekend bargain near the heart of the city. Expect everything from antiques and bric a brac to cut-price clothes and street food trucks.
barras glasgow

The Tenement House

Garnethill

This Victorian flat, once the residence of a house-proud local by the name of Miss Agnes Toward, has been kept as it looked a century earlier, making it a fascinating time capsule of Glasgow life as it used to be. Retaining everything from working gaslights and age-old household items to a scrubbed, coal-fired kitchen range, it gives a captivating look into the past.

Tenement House

Greenbank Garden

Clarkston

Green-fingered readers, take note. This 250-year-old walled garden – a slice of horticultural heaven on the southern outskirts of the city – now hosts more than 3,600 named species of plant, including a National Collection of Bergenia. The adjacent house, and the garden itself, were built back in 1760 for a local tobacco merchant, though be aware that he also had slave trade roots.

Finlaystone Country Park Estate

Renfrewshire

John Knox and Robert Burns are among the history-shaking names to have visited this stately house and estate, located near the Firth of Clyde some 18 miles west of Glasgow. The grounds comprise around 140 acres of woodland, laced with various walking trails, while a number of play areas and welly-friendly burns make the estate a great option for young families. Keen on birdwatching? You’re in luck too – more than 50 species have been recorded.

Waverley Excursions

Departs from Glasgow Science Centre

Billed as the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer, this handsome, locally built, double-funnelled vessel only made its maiden voyage in 1947, but such is its fame that it’s now been registered on The National Historic Fleet. It offers seasonal pleasure cruises from ports and piers across the UK, but its home patch is here on the Clyde. More than six million past passengers can’t be wrong…

Tennent’s Visitor Centre

Departs from Glasgow Science Centre

The red T of the Tennent’s Lager logo illuminates the majority of bar counters across the country, making the brand’s Wellpark Brewery a kind of pub-goers’ pilgrimage site. Behind-the-scenes tours let you look more closely at how the beer gets brewed, as well as tracing the history, the packaging, and even the TV adverts of this ubiquitous Scottish brand. 

tennents

Scottish Football Museum

Hampden Park

Glasgow, as you may be aware, lives and breathes football, so it feels only natural that Europe’s first national football museum should have opened right here. Found not at the grounds of Celtic or Rangers but on the more neutral territory of Hampden Park Stadium, it tells the story of Scottish football from 1867 through to the present day, with more than 40,000 – yes, 40,000 – objects on display, from boots and shirts to photographs and trophies.

Drygate Brewery

Near Duke Street

Slaking the thirst of Glaswegians since 2013, Drygate’s brewhouse is based in an erstwhile box factory, creating an atmospheric spot not just for drinking, but dining too. A view directly onto the brewery reminds you where your beer was made, and there’s just as much enjoyment to be had from the food, which ranges from fillet steaks to South Indian curries.
drygate brewery

The Clydeside Distillery

Kelvinhaugh

Operating in an old pumphouse once used by customs and excise officials at Queen’s Dock, this modern distillery has brought whisky-making back to a part of the city that once handled countless barrels of the stuff. It offers tours and tastings, as well as a café that serves whisky flights with paired snacks and handmade doughnuts. And if you never knew that whisky and doughnuts were a pairing made in heaven? Well, now’s your chance to learn.
Clydeside distillery

Where to eat and drink in Glasgow

In a city as multi-layered as Glasgow, you don’t need to look far for a memorable meal, a belting night out, or a good excuse to spend money. Some of the city’s restaurants are as good as you’ll find anywhere in Scotland, and much the same can be said about its drinking holes and performance venues. As for its shopping, you can expect to leave town with heavier bags than you arrived with.  

The Steps Bar

Merchant City

To cross the threshold of this iconic Glasgow pub is to step back in time – not to some oak-panelled, wood-fire day of yore, but to the Art Deco era of the late 1940s. You’ll therefore find veneer-panelled walls, frosted windows, padded benches, and even bell pushes. More modern touches come courtesy of live football and a strong selection of beer, wine, spirits and cocktails.

Six by Nico

Finnieston

You may well be familiar with the Six by Nico concept: it offers a themed six-course tasting menu that changes every six weeks, courtesy of Scottish-Italian chef Nico Simeone. This popular Finnieston outlet is the original, but since being unveiled in 2017 it has opened branches as far afield as London, Liverpool and Dublin. There’s even a second Glasgow outlet, in the south of the city.

Wilson Street Pantry

Merchant City

Renowned as one of Glasgow’s best all-day brunch spots, this relaxed city-centre spot takes its food and drink seriously, whether you’re looking for a top-notch eggs benedict or a proper flat white. It’s open until 4pm seven days a week.
wilson street pantry

Ka Pao

Glasgow Botanic Gardens

Red curry of sea trout, coley and langoustine? Jungle curry of Shetland mussels and Ramiro peppers? Southeast Asia meets Scotland at this colourful restaurant, which sits in a converted garage close to the Botanic Gardens. The name translates as ‘Holy Basil’ in Thai.

Frank’s Pizzeria

Finnieston

The logo for this new pizza joint, based to the west of the city centre, shows a hat-wearing bulldog splayed across a dripping slice of pizza. The slogan for the same place? ‘Fresh, Hot Pies’. These facts say plenty about the quirky approach the owners have adopted, although the pizzas themselves – thankfully – are very much the real deal.

Paesano Pizzeria

Merchant City

Glasgow has long had a strong Italian influence, so this artisan pizzeria is about as authentic as you’ll find this side of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It claims to be the first to bring traditional Naples-style pizza to the city, and when you taste its classic mozzarella – its crust light, soft and perfectly charred – you’ll be in no position to argue.
Paesano Pizza

Café Gandolfi

Merchant City

There’s nowhere else in Glasgow quite like this wood-panelled café-restaurant, which played a formative role in the regeneration of the Merchant City area. Opened by a photographer in the late 70s, and occupying the offices of a former cheese market, it remains a place rich in atmosphere, thanks to its design furniture and all-bases-covered menus. Unusually, it’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.    

The Ubiquitous Chip

Ashton Lane

A familiar presence on Ashton Lane – and in the Good Food Guide – since 1971, this classy restaurant offers far more than its name would suggest. Expect tasting menus, wine flights and unusual dishes such as monkfish bourguignon, or steamed duck egg with truffle custard. There are strong vegetarian options, and the upstairs brasserie has a smaller menu of its own.

Cottiers

Dowanhill

Is it a bar? Is it a church? Is it a theatre? Is it a restaurant? Improbably, it’s all of the above. Cottiers sits in what was once a parish church, but these days the multi-space venue is somewhere you can order a cocktail, watch a live show, or sit down to a serious feed. It’s named after 19th-century designer Daniel Cottier, whose stained glassworks still decorate the interior.   

Cottiers

The Gannet

Finnieston

A neighbourhood restaurant of serious renown, The Gannet was opened by a group of foodie friends in 2013 and now draws Michelin recommendations. The multi-course menu changes seasonally, and relies on local foragers, farmers and artisan producers. The bird referenced in the name was chosen for its healthy appetite – and no wonder.

Innis & Gunn Taproom

Ashton Lane

Some 23 taps ensure that drinkers have plenty of choice at this red-bricked haven for craft beer-lovers on Ashton Lane, with own-brand, local and international brews all well represented. Innis & Gunn’s own award-winning Lager Beer, indeed, is stored in 500-litre tanks delivered fresh from the brewery. Not a beer fan? Fear not – wines, spirits and cocktails are all available.

Café Strange Brew

Shawlands

Creations at this inimitable brunch spot have previously ranged from Jaffa Cake French toast to White Russian waffles (with, yes, vodka chocolate sauce), which goes some way to explain the café’s almost cultish levels of popularity. The food presentation is spectacular – for both sweet and savoury dishes – and the coffee’s excellent. What’s not to love?

BAM Glasgow

Southside

A vintage store and independent café rolled into one, artfully curated space, BAM was set up by a pair of local twin sisters in 2018 and now draws curio-hunters and coffee-lovers in equal measure. It makes use of speciality roasters from across Scotland, the UK and Europe, while the classy vintage stock includes homewares, artworks and pre-loved clothing. And as if that weren’t enough, they do homemade cake too.
Bam Glasgow

Gordon Street Coffee

Glasgow Central Station

It’s on Gordon Street. It does coffee. And when we say it does coffee, we mean it really does coffee. Its onsite roastery allows it to roast and blends its own beans, resulting in a number of award-winning coffees (try the Glasgow Blend, with its notes of dark chocolate, wine and molasses), while its location on the edge of Central Station makes it the perfect spot to re-caffeinate before or after a journey.

Grain & Grind

Southside

The first of multiple Grain & Grind branches in Glasgow was this smart, bright coffee shop on Battlefield Road. Within a few years of its 2018 opening the brand had established a presence across the city – and even as far afield as Inverness, where its main roastery is now based. The beans themselves are sourced from cooperatives and smallholders from more than fifteen countries.

The Steamie

Finnieston

Few cafés wear their Scottish colours more proudly than The Steamie, which has coffee blends by the names of Big Yin, Glasgow Kiss and even Timorous Beastie. And as well as producing exceptional coffee, this small-batch craft roastery also offers all-day brunches and sandwiches. Huevos rancheros and breakfast burritos are both specialities, while veggies will love the Glasgow Green fry-up.

Ocho

Port Dundas

This canalside café gazes out across the cobbles and forms part of the original 1851 Speirs Wharf building – but puts a decidedly modern spin on its brunches, lunches and cocktails. Expect beautifully presented dishes founded on fresh, local produce. 

Shops in Glasgow

Aume

Strathbungo

Owner Amber Boyd was inspired to open this carefully curated homeware shop through a love of indie European concept stores, resulting in somewhere that feels clean, bright, and oozing with sophistication. You’ll find everything from scented candles and premium stationery to handmade cushions and designer vases.
Aume

Hoos

West End

There’s something deeply comforting about the ordered jumble of stylish homeware goods on show at Hoos, a selection inspired by owner Karen Harvey’s interest in Scandinavian design. As well as gorgeous lamps, chairs and kitchenware, the store also stocks books, jewellery and children’s toys, as well as carefully chosen perfumes and chocolates.
Hoos

Mr Ben

Near Trongate

Catering for fashion-conscious Glaswegians since the 90s, this longstanding second-hand clothing emporium specialises in retro and vintage items, with space too for jewellery and accessories. The store is so ingrained in the city’s clothes-shopping scene that it even has its own gift vouchers.

Deanston Bakery

Shawlands

A veritable temple to the joys of sourdough bread and bagels, this much-loved Shawlands bakery has a legion of social media followers, which says plenty about the quality of the goods that come out of its oven. Filled sandwiches add to the appeal, as do the bakery’s sweet treats – try the warm cinnamon buns.
Deanston Bakery

Timorous Beasties

Great Western Road

Founded in 1990 by two local art students, this fiercely inventive design studio has now grown to the point where it now has multiple awards, a showroom in Berlin, and a client list that includes Nike, Philip Treacy and Fortnum & Mason. It’s best known for its colourful, and often edgy, fabrics.
Timorous Beasties

Aperçu

Southside

A leafy haven in the thrum of the city, Aperçu has won countless admirers thanks to its pleasingly diverse range of plants and flowers, and an obsession with all things horticultural. Pots, terrariums and elegant handmade goods are also sold. Look for the sage-green frontage. 

The History of Glasgow

Archaeological evidence suggests that our prehistoric forebears were familiar with the lands now occupied by Glasgow. However, the city’s story begins in earnest with St Kentigern, better known as St Mungo, a sixth-century Christian missionary renowned for his energetic preaching style. Sometime around the year 543, he built a simple church on the banks of the Clyde (Glasgow Cathedral now stands on the same site).

From these humble religious beginnings, the settlement grew incrementally over the next few centuries. In around 1285 the first bridge was built across the Clyde, and 1451 saw the founding of the University of Glasgow. As the local population grew, the burgeoning city became not just an academic and ecclesiastical hub but a key base for industry, international trade, and shipbuilding.

Buoyed by demand for everything from coal to cotton, Glasgow became one of the richest cities in Europe, its population outstripping that of Edinburgh by 1821. It played a vital shipbuilding role in the World Wars, but by the 1960s its yards and wharves were in steady decline. These fortunes were reversed when Glasgow was named European City of Culture in 1990, helping to transform some of its run-down areas, and a further boon came in 2014, when it hosted the Commonwealth Games. The arrival of COP26 in 2021 cemented its status as a global city.

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